
Pigs age at a rate of about 5 years to one of a humans. It seems when they reach the senior years it goes all too fast. We cannot conceive of our friends leaving our lives. There is no way to prepare for the loss. We can only make the elder years good ones.
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Juvenile (baby-2 years old) |
Young adult (3-7) |
Mature adult ( 8-12 ) |
Senior (13-15) |
Elder ( 16-20 ) |
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in human years - infant to 14 |
15-39 |
40-64 |
65-79 |
80 and older |
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Still growing; no tusks evident, easily pleased, loves attention and companions of all species. Health risk medium with accidental death (especially from dogs) high |
Growth ends at about 5. On some pigs tusks may begin to be visible on the little boys. Health risk low. |
Outdoor pigs with plenty of space, a good social life with other pigs and good forage are at their prime. They shine, they have energy to spare, they are content. Their interest in humans is casual. Friendly pigs are willing to throw themselves down for a belly rub, others will pass. Dental checks begin In altered pigs, the health risk is very low
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Some slowing down begins. The keen competitive nature declines and pigs may not eat as well with some slow weight loss occurring. Dental problems begin in the majority of pigs. More time spent basking in the sun than exploring the woods. Health risk sharply increases. Unspayed females who have survived this long will usually be stricken with fatal reproductive disease. |
Slower days. The loss of sight, hearing and smell all contribute toward the need for special care. With a decline in activity, arthritis may affect them more severely and require medications and the diet needs to be changed to prevent constipation. They enjoy the belly rub more than ever. Teeth are worn away and the diet needs to be of soft foods, and to maintain good health, more digestible and more nutritious foods. Better protection from climate is needed as they no longer deal well with extremes. |
Behaviors at various ages
Pigs are very adaptable as youngsters, moving in and out of new environments with more expectancy and curiosity than concern. They are agreeable to many behaviors in humans that a few years later are totally resisted. Starting the pig off in an environment that he can grow in will assure the next stage of his life will smoothly connect. Young pigs need a "safety" zone to feel secure. This is a place, often his own house in the yard or private space in the barn, where he can always go when he is afraid or tired or just needs to be alone. The best world for a young pig includes (no surprise here) another pig to play with.. to race with and sleep with and sharpen his competitive skills with. . He needs room to run and explore. Juvenile pigs (and the rare adult) spin with happiness. It is the most joyful expression of life ever exhibited. Give one a pile of leaves, a sand pile or a handful of hay and if you are very very lucky you will see him spin.. like their human counterparts they will spin until they get dizzy and fall into a happy heap.
humans are in their immediate environment they will challenge them as well. Big oofs and feinting a charge and even a rare nip are all growing signs of their maturing nature, seeking a position of command. If they are not being raised in a suitable, outdoor area with lots of room, this is the age at which destruction born of too much confinement begins. It is at this age that the absence of his own kind will become more painful and the age at which most pigs are carried off to a shelter to be killed because they are "aggressive". Unfortunately for all, this is not true. They are simply pigs growing up in a wrong environment. For some pigs, who see no resolution to their unhappiness, depression and eventually stress related death can result. See Environment section for information on preparing for a healthy and happy environment before he becomes this age.
herd,however small, and only occasionally challenges it. He begins to choose with more care, how to spend his days; less adventure, more grazing. He will graze in the early hours, siesta during mid day and be back out to graze in the evening. He will have a place he sleeps every night, with the same companions or family he has always slept with, a special spot he goes to drink and his own spot to use the bathroom. Pigs are the original "creature of habit" and change will not be welcome in their life once they mature. By the later mature years his teeth will be worn, he may have decayed teeth and abscesses in his mouth and chin areas from bad teeth. More in Health section.
yearly or every 2 years are a good choice. Time for you to build that stress free chute/ramp (or buy one from our builder see the Essentials page here . His need for large spaces to roam is over. He is content in a much smaller area with less variety. A warm bed, soft foods and lots of sun bathing and shade.. he is content. As his companions leave this world, after a grieving period pigs at this age generally don't take on a new special friend. For his welfare, it is good if there are other pigs around, but a special buddy is not likely to be chosen.
foreboding. It is the machinations of us humans and our medical processes which sometimes make matters more difficult. Quietly explaining the need for the shot before giving it can go a long way. They DO understand the tone, the body language and the faith they have in you. A few suggestions: Slowing down is normal, but certain behaviors indicate other issues. Aging does bring physical and mental changes but nobody dies of "old age". They die of age related diseases. Diseases can be (sometimes) cured, (often) controlled and (always) managed. Some body parts simply wear out, like their teeth. Left un addressed, bad teeth can kill, either thorough direct infection or infection that spreads to the bones or further, by malnutrition or even starvation.
As the senses become weakened their behavior will show changes. They will not be willing to compete for food. As the sense of smell declines they will push food around and seem very "picky". With declining sight, they will shy from objects that are not threatening. They will refuse to walk up and down stairs or ramps that they have used for years. They will touch their dish of food and jerk back like it was hot or something hurt them. All these are signals of failing senses. But sometimes these are also signs of particular illnesses. Becoming sedentary, refusing stairs and ramps, not being willing to get in the piggy pool.. these are all things a pig with arthritis will do as well. Once arthritis sets in , or any disease that makes the pig feel less than "whole" and "competent", it affects his behavior. He feels at risk doing things he used to do, uncertain of his stability, and won't take any chances on not being able to get out of the pool or slipping on the ramp, or being unable to get back to his "safe zone", his bed. Physically he is able to do these things but his worries overtake him. No amount of encouragement will change a pig's mind. You may force him but you won't change him. A pig who ducks from a stationary object, avoids the sunshine or jerks back from food may have neurological problems or even a bad headache, like a migraine. As boys age many of them experience less than vigorous urination. They stand and wait.. and wait.. and wait.. for that pump to start. While it may start and after a 2 or 3 minute drip, then a dribble, a stream of some sort will follow. BUT if he is really blocked, the stream will never start and the straining will be indicative that this is more than a tired urethra.
It is always better to take a little blood and check out what can be checked without putting him at risk to find out if he is acting "normal" for his age or is dealing with an illness. With old pigs ask your vet to use Midazolam to tranquilize him so sedation won't be necessary. He will nod off like a good nap and wake up as easily as it wears off, without stress, without fear.
Rule of tranquilizing: Give the shot and leave the pig alone in a quiet place for 40 to 50 minutes. (If you stay with him he may never get tranquil enough) Leave him in the car or in the trailer and let him nod out. The blood can usually be drawn without ever moving him and he will sleep until you get home and can unload him.